:: Diary - March 2026 ::

:: Sunday, 1 March 2026 ::

Another TVR Car Club day, with the usual exciting TVR-related announcements and events. That is to say, absolutely feck all. I found out by coincidence that the Celtic Gathering takes place next weekend, about 3 miles from my house. There hasn't been a single mention, far less an announcement. No wonder I have abandonment issues...

At our wee table for the older models (both the members and our cars), discussion of TVRs is limited mainly to Wedges, particularly one of Eric's extensive fleet of wedges, which he is restoring to working order. It currently has battery charging issues (particularly the ignition light staying on, dimly, while the engine is running). We discuss our understanding of how the charging and ignition light system works, and he has a few more wee tests to do.

My two TVRs are both "ready to go", apart from maybe checking over the Vixen's carb settings. I've been waiting since November for a dry day for testing!

We also discovered (again, by our own research) that we need to buy tickets for the TVRCC Season Opener in England in May. It's only our wee group that goes, it's never announced as an official "Central Scotland Group" weekend, and that's fine. The last time a bigger group went to an event in England, donkey's years ago, it took us hours to get home, partly because someone or other couldn't keep up and got lost, or had no idea how to travel together and got lost, or fucked off into the distance then got lost. Also, every stop took as long as the speed of the slowest eater, and one or two spent so much time blethering that they hadn't started their dinner by the time I was finished mine. I doubt that they are aware that some meals are actually served hot.

It's far, far better to travel in a small group of folk that know each other, know how we work when driving, and know how to keep together. Mostly.

Nobody outside our wee group asks about my new orange moon buggy, that I brought Dave and Eric in. You would think that a group of car enthusiasts might be even a wee bit interested, but no. Maybe I'm just not showy-offy enough. Feckin' abandonment issues again...


:: Wednesday, 4 March 2026 ::

We've had a couple of half-decent weather days, so after our discussions at the meeting on Sunday, thoughts have returned to getting the cars ready for the various trips etc over the summer. The S is pretty much there, but I have still to look at the Vixen's carburettor settings. Even with the mixture screw turned in as far as it will go, the engine still runs, so I think it's either getting too much air, or not enough fuel, and that's leading to the hesitation when you start to put power on from idle.

Now, I could take it to a "tuner", but who? Their first question would be "where do I plug in the computer?" Who still does proper "tuning" of old-skool carb cars?

Let me explain my cynicism... a long time ago, I had an NSU Prinz (you can read about that under "cars I have owned" in the menu bar on the left there). When I got it, it had even less power than the nearly zero bhp that it was born with. I took it back to the garage I bought it from, who said that they had "crypton-tuned it" and there was nothing wrong with it.

Useless bastards - so I decided to look at it myself, and found that one of its two ignition leads was shorting, where the insulation had melted through against the edge of the exhust manifold. It was only running on 1 cylinder. I found it by getting an HT shock right up my arm, whereupon my mother, standing nearbly, discovered that I knew a lot more swear words than I had previously disclosed in my innocent young life.

Many years later (but still over 30 years ago!) I had a Vauxhall Astra 1.3L as a company car. I had to get it serviced at a main dealer in Glasgow, where I worked at the time. When I got it back, it was misfiring like hell, and they wouldn't look at it because everyone had already gone home. I had to drive 34 miles home, and then 34 miles back the next day, at a max speed of 30 mph...

They took it in first thing, and then called me at around 5pm to tell me it was ready. When I turned up, they said "no fault found" and handed me the keys... well, it could hardly reach the end of their car park. Once again, they wouldn't look at it because everyone had already gone home, but the service manager took me through to their empty workshop and explained that he had a staff of fully-trained expert mechanics, and a £35,000 diagnostic machine. "If they can't find a fault using that machine," he said, "there isn't a fault"". He was very polite, but I recognise a "fuck off" when I hear one, so again I had to drive 34 miles home, at a max speed of 30 mph...

By this time I was so pissed off that, company car or no, I decided to look at it myself. It took me less than 5 minutes to isolate cylinder number 1 as the misfiring culprit (by removing plug leads one at a time), and another minute to diagnose that their new spark plug, inserted during the service, was "outside unfucked specification". The ceramic had broken under the ministrations of their expert spanner-wielding gibbon, and was covering the spark gap, so no firey. I horsed in another spare plug and it ran as sweet as a very sweet thing... in less than 5 minutes, with elementary tools. Oh and a half-functioning brain.

Back to the main stealers next morning - hauled the service manager to the counter and said "remember you told me about your fully-equipped experts and how they could find any fault? Well, they didn't find this," as I handed him the spark plug. "I found and fixed that non-existent fault in under 5 minutes." He was suitably embarrassed and offered me back the price of the spark plugs. He recognised the undertone of "stupid arrogant tosser" when he heard it though, so I negotiated the refund up to the full price of the service, just to encourage further training in the dying art of fault diagnosis.

I was watching an episode of "Bangers and Cash" the other night, and they had taken in a Crypton Tuner. Most of them didn't know what it was. One or two knew what it was, but had never learned how to work one. The general opinion was that they were shite at the time, so they were totally useless now... QED.

Anyway, I digress. Suffice to say that I would rather have a go at this myself than try to find someone old enough and good enough to do it for me.

So I've done a bit of research, and found some basic jets and settings for the Weber 32/36 carb. Then on a Ford owners website, I found slightly different recommended settings for a 1600 crossflow. What I don't know, is what jets are in my carb - I took it apart in October 2024, wrote them down, then lost the bit of paper...

So on Tuesday, I decided to investigate by taking the top off the carb - first remove the air cleaner, then disconnect the wee choke lever, remove the fuel line and undo the 6 screws holding the top on the carb.

This is the top of the carb, where you can see the two air corrector jets in the top. There are also two main jets in the bottom of the bowl (under those air jets) and two idle jets in the sides of the carb (not really visible in this photo). I take all of those out, noting exactly which goes where, and their sizes.


Here's the removed jets for the primary inlet (left hand side) and secondary (right hand side).


This is a diagram that I found online that shows the position of these jets, and the recommended sizes. I also found a slightly different list of settings on a Ford Owners club website for a 1600 crossflow GT engine - which is what mine is. More on that in a minute.


Here's a wee table. Who doesn't love a table, right? (not in the physical sense, obviously, shagging your furniture is not "de rigeur" in polite society). The first column shows the jet settings in the diagram above. The second column shows the settings from the owners club website. Pretty similar, but with a bigger primary main jet and smaller secondary air corrector.


The third column shows the jet sizes that I took out of the Vixen. Much smaller jets on the primary side, slightly more air on the secondary side. I have no idea why they have been set as they are, that's just how I found them.

At this point I have to stop and rack my brain trying to remember how carburettors work. I know that at idle speed, the air corrector and the idle jet work together to meter the amount of fuel reaching the idle mixture screw. My engine is idling with the mixture screw almost all the way in, so that maybe suggests that the air jet isn't big enough?

Also, the primary main jet seems to be much too small - could that be leading to the "flat spot" as the carb transitions from "idle" to "open"?

After much consideration, I decide to leave the secondary jets as they were, but increase the jets on the primary side to the sizes for the 1600 GT.

Here's an updated table, that includes the revised jetting that I settled on.


Then I check the float height. Here's the top of the carb upside down with the floats in place.


To set the correct float height, you hold the carburettor top vertically so that the tab is just resting on the needle valve. For a brass float, the bottom of the float should be 41mm from the face of the top surface. Then you turn the carb top the right way up so that the float is hanging, and the bottom of the float should be 51mm from the face of the top surface, as shown in the left hand diagram. Mine was about 2mm too low, so the needle valve would be closing slightly too early, which would lead to a slightly weak mixture. I bend the wee tab on the needle ball valve slightly, to set it right.


The diagram on the right is for plastic floats, which are a different shape and more "floaty".

So with that all set, I reassemble the carb, reconnect the choke and replace the air cleaner. I wind out the mixture screw to a starting position of 3 full turns from closed, and start it up! Once it has warmed up a bit, I adjust the mixture screw to "best idle" and then reset the idle speed. Then the mixture again and then the idle speed. After a third time, it's idling fairly smoothly at around 850 rpm. I couldn't get it to idle below around 1,000 rpm before.

I don't have a rolling road, and it's getting dark, so no time for a test drive. I switch it off before it overheats, and I'll try it again tomorrow.

There we go - a day that sums up this website! Half a page of slavering pish, and half a page of technical discussion (which may well also turn out to be slavering pish, if you know anyuthing about carburettor tuning). Life is all about balance.


:: Thursday, 5 March 2026 ::

Right, time for the rolling road test - or a couple of miles around the roads near the house, to try out these delicate tuning adjustments.

It starts up lovely, and idles fine while I shut up the garage. On the road, it's definitely pulling away from junctions better, and even changing gear seems smoother without the flat spot just as you press the accelerator. The idle speed seems scary slow, but it's smooth enough and picks up as soon as you touch the throttle. It does seem better, so I'll leave those settings for now, and see if any minor changes are needed when I've driven it a bit.

It's starting to rain though, so back to the garage and leave it idling to see of the temperature rises again - and it does! I leave it to cool, and then check the coolant level. This is where the lame excuses start...

The radiator should be full up to the bottom of that right-angle neck under the radiator cap. You remove the cap, you look down and you see water. No, you see the bottom of the horizontal tube. It looks wet, but that's not the water level...


I pour in some mixed antifreeze - a surprising amount of antifreeze, probably at least 2 litres, until there is deifinitely water in the bottom of the tube. I start the car again, and leave it to idle while I tidy the garage. The temp needle stays exactly where it should.

Skoolboy error - glad I found it before any longer runs! There has never been any sign of steam or water leaking from the cooling system, but I'll have to just keep a wee eye on that!


:: Saturday, 7 March 2026 ::

Remember last weeken, I wrote about the mystical Celtic Gathering taking place this weekend, that we didn't know about? Well, it seems I was wrong - I found an email from March last year with the dates for this year. Nevertheless, it hasn't been mentioned since. You know when you're not wanted...

Well, not until they need you. Dave got a phone call this morning, one of the Irish contingent broke his sump bolt, needs a new sump plug and a refill of oil. Dave is a better person than me, so he headed up there with a spare sump plug and some oil, and fixed it. I suspect I might have been busy.

It seems our AA service has extended to groups that don't even want us to be there.

Meanwhile, I cleaned up the Vixen, and then had another wee test run. It's definitely running a lot better when moving away from junctions, or after changing gear. On the way hope, I stop off at the supermarket, where a couple come over to see the car when I park. Then another dad and son when I come back. All very nice!


:: Tuesday, 10 March 2026 ::

I nearly "done an Adrian"! I mean to service both TVRs before the summer, and the fact that snow fell, but then melted within a couple of hours, reminded me that our SCottish summer is almost here!

A rake through the garage shows that I have plenty oil (of different types!) to service both cars, and two spare oil filters for the Vixen. I don't have any oil or fuel filters for the S though, so I ordered those yesterday, and they should be available for collection tomorrow.

Today, though, it's Vixen service day. I starrt, as you always do, by starting and warming the car up a wee bit, just to thin the oil, and then remove the drain plug and empty the oil into a tray. Then I can remove the filter and fit a new one. I replace the drain plug with a new copper washer, and refill the oil to just a fraction below the full mark.

For a while, I have noticed that when I start the Vixen from cold, it often sounds as if the battery is flat - and then it jumps into life. I have a look at the battery connections, and notice that the earth clamp is almost closed up by the pinch bolt, It's also a bit corroded.

I remove the clamp, and disconnect it from the cable. The earth clamp has an eyelet on the end, which is fixed to the clamp by a wee bolt. All of it is rusty, so connections can't be good. I clean up the eyelet, the cable clamp, the battery clamp and the battery post with sandpaper, and bend the main clamp apart a bit so that the pinch bolt grips the battery post tightly. That should be better!


Next, I remove the gearbox level plug, and use a big syringe to top it up with Hypoid 80 gear oil (GL-4 spec - they say that the brass synchro rings in old gearboxes don't like the additives in GL-5 spec oils.) Then I remove the differential filler plug and top that up with Hypoid 90 GL-5 oil (you can just wiggle a 1 litre bottle in to the available space above the drive shaft, so no need for a syringe).

Then I go around all of the grease nipples - 2 in the handbrake cable, 2 in the rear hub carriers, 2 in the front trunnions (although I think one of them is blocked - I need to take that out and clear it), and one in the top of the steering rack.

That might seem like a pretty short list for a full service - but when you're driving a car all the time, you're carrying out a lot of "service items" all the time - making sure lights work, brakes pull evenly, checking for oil and exhaust leaks etc etc, so you don't particularly have to go through the routine of checking them as you would on someone else's car. Not that I like working on someone else's car - I learned a very long time ago that people can easily expert a lifetime guarantee on all moving parts, whether you touched them or not.

Total working time - probalby about an hour. Total time taken - about 3 hours, allowing for resealing one of the hydraulic connectors in the lifts, farting about refilling the grease gun, farting about filling the syringe with gear oil and cleaning up myself, the bench, the floor and various tools afterwards, emptying the drain pan into another empty oil can for disposal, lowering the car and putting the lifts away, eating a breakfast roll, and god only knows what else.

Eventually, though, I'm ready for a wee test drive. The car starts up easily, and drives really well. It's transformed at low engine speeds, but still had that exhaust resonance at around 2,500 rpm. It's lovely to drive though, and it sounds great.

I'm happy with half-a-day well spent. Next - TVR S3C!



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